“When history reborn becomes legend”
-
In 2025, LACLAYE come to life, and the claye, forgotten since the last century, was revived. The object and his destiny crossed paths with Koji Kawasumi in Osaka. The gesture and the claye, reborn in his hands, seem (and indeed they have) never to have disappeared. A mastery, a unique ritual, and a way of showcasing the champagne bottle, which elsewhere had ceased to exist.
LACLAYE: "Can you introduce yourself to those who don't know you ?"
KOJI KAWASUMI: "I was born in Nara, Japan.
I started in this industry in 1979, joining the local Nara Hotel.
I wanted to be a chef, but I didn't have the money to go to culinary school, so I worked as a waiter and waited for a spot to open up.
I waited for three years, but I couldn't get into the kitchen, and while I was thinking about what to do next, I met a customer who loved wine.
After that, I went to wine school and became more and more interested in wine.
In 1985, the Japan Sommelier Association became an incorporated association.
The first sommelier certification exam was held there.
Luckily, I passed the exam, but at that time wine was still not very popular in Nara.
I ate at French restaurants in Osaka and Tokyo to see sommeliers at work, and in addition to my hotel job, I worked part-time late-night jobs to save money and travel to France to see real sommeliers.
After returning from France, I left the Nara Hotel and joined the Hilton Osaka when it opened in 1986.
Even though I was certified by the Japan Sommelier Association, I had little experience as a sommelier, so I was a captain waiter and was unable to become a sommelier at the Osaka Hilton.
There was one sommelier assigned, and when that sommelier was on vacation, I and another aspiring sommelier took turns acting as fake sommeliers.
Six months later, they decided to add another sommelier and I was chosen. I continued to learn at Hilton for the next 12 years, working as a sommelier, assistant manager, manager and chief sommelier.
After that, I went independent and opened Wine-Ya Kawasumi, aiming to be a place where customers could enjoy delicious wine.
Thanks to the support of our customers, we celebrated our 25th anniversary last December."
LACLAYE: "When and how did this passion for sommellerie come about?"
KOJI KAWASUMI: "While working at the Nara Hotel, I was fortunate to meet a wine-loving couple, who ordered a variety of wines.
Even though I knew absolutely nothing about wine, customer always left a third of the wine he ordered so that I could study it.
Whenever customers came to the store, they would order about four bottles of wine and invite me to taste them. And it's all grand vin. Of course, not everything is amazing, but when I do, I've had the chance to experience a dream-like taste that doesn't exist in this world.
Around that time, I learned that top French restaurants have sommeliers. I then attended wine school, and observed sommeliers at other restaurants and hotels.
Finally, I even went to France, and, if I may say so myself, I went to a local Michelin-starred restaurant to observe the sommeliers rather than the food.
I watched the behavior of these real sommeliers and stole my eyeballs to see the amazing moves of each one.
This is what made me want to become a sommelier."
LACLAYE: "Can you tell us about the gesture and its history which, in your hands, transcends ritual to become a true opening ceremony?"
KOJI KAWASUMI: "The technique known as the "Muselet Twist", which has now become synonymous with me, was taught to me by Mr. Kazuyoshi Kogai (note: He would later become President of the International Sommelier Association), who was the technical director at the time, at a basic techniques seminar held by the Japan Sommelier Association in 1985.
At the time, Mr. Kogai was working at Maxim's de Paris in Japan and also trained at Maxim's in France. It's possible that he first learned the muselet twist in France during that training.
I was so impressed when LACLAYE came back last year.
In my collection of champagne openers, I have a sommelier knife with a claye on the tip.
The revived LACLAYE is a convenient item for sommeliers to wear as a uniform or carry around. It also makes uncorking champagne easy. Its simple and fashionable design is also appealing."
LACLAYE: "What is your favorite claye model?"
KOJI KAWASUMI: "LES CLAYES ICONIQUES : The lever is long, making it easy to use the leverage principle.
LES CLAYES CARDS : Because they are card-shaped, you can use the principle of leverage to spread your power across the entire area, which is also great.
Both types are great.
It's just a matter of preference for the user."
LACALAYE: "A word for the young sommeliers?"
KOJI KAWASUMI: "A sommelier should not be a wine collector.
To become a sommelier who can sell wine, it is important to hone your personality and capture the hearts of your customers."
-
Find Koji Kawasumi on Instagram.
And
Wine-Ya Kawasumi - GOTS Eirakucho Building B1, 1-9-10 Sonezaki Shinchi, Kita-ku, Osaka, Japan
-
Discover LACLAYE Opening and a tutorial with la claye by Koji Kawasumi
